Hiking the North Coast Trail: A Complete Trip Report

The North Coast Trail is one of Vancouver Island’s most rugged and remote hikes. It offers a challenging and rewarding adventure along 43 kilometers of wild coastline leading into Cape Scott, which tacks on another 38 kilometers of exploring. Known for its dramatic landscapes, this trail winds through dense coastal rainforest, across sandy beaches, and over rocky headlands. Unlike its southern counterpart, the West Coast Trail, the North Coast Trail offers solitude and a true backcountry experience, making it perfect for those craving a more private and remote trek.

From slippery log crossings to tide-dependent beach routes, every section of the trail demands resilience and careful planning. But with those challenges come the beauty of living life, watching the sun dip below the Pacific Ocean, spotting wildlife along the shore, and feeling a deep connection to the islands and being immersed in nature.

This trip report covers my experience tackling the North Coast Trail, 2.5 times. Along the way, I learned valuable lessons, navigated unexpected obstacles, and gained a deeper appreciation for this untamed coastline. Whether you’re planning your own trek or simply curious about what it’s like out there, I’ll share my insights, tips, and stories to help you prepare for your own adventure.

 

Planning

 

Distance: The North Coast Trail is a 43.1km extension of the original Cape Scott trail. The total hiking distance is approximately 60km

Elevation Gain: Approximately 1,800 meters (5,900 feet) cumulative over the entire trail.

Trailheads: Shushartie Bay (east) and Cape Scott (west),  typically hiked westbound, but options exist to customize your route.

Duration: Usually takes 5 to 8 days, depending on pace and side trips.

Difficulty: Strenuous; expect steep climbs, muddy sections, slippery boardwalks, and tide-dependent beach crossings.

Permits: Required for overnight trips and can be booked through BC Parks. The trail is open year-round, but most hikers attempt it from May to September.

Campsites: Designated campsites along the trail, primarily on beaches. Sites are first-come, first-served.

Best Time to Hike: Late June to early September for the most favorable weather and safer conditions.

Transportation: Shuttle services and water taxis are available from Port Hardy to access trailheads.

Wildlife: Expect to see black bears, wolves, and other wildlife. Proper food storage and safety precautions are essential.

 

Resources:

BC Parks Website A North Coast Trail overview of guidelines, safety, and conditions.

 

How to Book:

• Make your reservation at BC Parks Canada Reservations.
• Then plan your shuttles! Parked at Cape Scott Water Taxi then got the shuttle bus back to the parking lot from Cape Scott Trail’s head entrance.

 

 

Trip Report

 

Introduction

My first introduction to Cape Scott Provincial Park was in 2011 when we hiked in and out from the Cape Scott (west) entrance — a perfect weekend trip to explore the rugged coastline. I returned in 2017, and then again in 2021, this time to take on the full North Coast Trail. Each experience was unique, shaped by different conditions, challenges, and perspectives.

This is a trail that tests the mind, body, and spirit. The people you go with matter so much. I hope these experiences help you feel more prepared and excited for your adventure.

 

 

Day 1: Drove to Port Hardy Staed at North Coast Trail Hostel

Port Hardy is at the northern tip of Vancouver Island. It is a 2.5-hour drive from Campbell River. From here cell service drops and is limited along the way. Our first and second trips involved spending a night at the North Coast Trail Hostel. The first time we met the owners and they were such lovely people. There was an incredible sunset that night and we ended up meeting them again down at the docks and took their picture. It’s a cheap option to wake up in the morning at start the trip.

 

Day 2: Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek – 8.1 km

We took the water taxi at 8:00 am and arrived at the trailhead around 9:00 am. It was a nice boat ride to start the trip. There was a fee box at the trailhead that we used. The hike was around 7 hours and a long hard day inland. This is the toughest day includes a lot of mud, roots, and climbing around the forest.  There is a halfway point at 4.3km which is a blessing and a curse. The first time I did this trail I didn’t remember that it was this tough. Probably because it was the first day and I was a bit younger. The second time was with a larger group which comes with taking care of more people.

My one really good friend got left behind and fell and got covered in mud – she was not a happy camper but we laugh at it now. The lesson on this day is that you are as fast as your slowest person and accommodating and allowing that to be okay is important. You are a team once you step foot out in remote places. We stuck her at the front to lead the way and she felt good and not left behind anymore. Being in such a large group the person in front of you should keep checking in on the person behind them. In a wolf pack the leader goes at the back… at least that’s what I saw in a movie once.

As soon as we smelt the ocean air a new life rose out of all of us. Right out of the trail is a shallow creek scrambling across a big log to where camp was. After a hard day, we were so thankful.

 

 

Day 3: Skinner Creek to Cape Sutil – 8 km

The first experience

This day was a 5.5 hour max hike and required planning of the tides. This day I have two completely different experiences from the 2 times I’ve hiked it. The first time the tide was not in our favor and we had to take the inland trail. MAN, what an experience. I forget everything else because it’s usually the most crazy moment you remember the most. We were hiking inland enjoying the vegetation and trees until BAM… I was hit with a root wall and I glanced up and was like wow okay let’s do this.

We started the climb to the top to another surprise. Oh my good god it just went straight back down again. It was challenging and a little sketchy because there was a washout creating a clay slide that seemed impossible to cross with a drop-off in one section. This section took up a lot of time but we did it safely and it was a thrill.

 

 

Later that evening a group we met the day before arrived to camp. We noticed the oldest lady in the group (who was an absolute beauty from Nelson), was all bandaged up. We of course asked her what happened because she was bleeding through the wrap. Her response was it was just a scratch and no big deal. It was this section I just mentioned where she got her boo-boo. Not to scare anyone it is just a section to be aware of and be safe and take your time.

 

 

The second experience

The second time I tackled this day, the tides were low and we were able to do the beach route. The route back inland comes up right where this crazy section was, so that was a relief of sight to know I skipped it. Secretly, I was disappointed because it was fun but for our large group’s sake it was best we haddent.  The picture above is us coming up from the beach. We came down the first time in the grey-rooted area.

We filled our water bottles in the morning at Skinner Creek. Re-filled them at Nahwitti River and 1k after the cable car there is a small creek.  A note is there is no water source at 16k at a cable car crossing.

 

 

 

Day 4: Cape Sutil to Shuttleworth Bight – 8 km

The first time I did the hike there was way more wildlife activity on the trail. Every morning it was low tide and we followed fresh bear, wolf, and deer tracks. They were fresh because the beach sand was new every day. We were bound to see something soon.

 

Day 5: Shuttleworth Bight to Nissen Bight – 19 km

Big hiking day and a 12-hour grind. But the hiking gets easier. The first trip we were mid day when we finally caught up to the bear. He was headed in the same direction as us and we slowly were catching up. We got close enough were it was time to let the bear know we were in the area. It finally noticed and headed into the forest.

We were still out on the beach and then suddenly we stumbled across a huge bear around a corner. It runs quickly to the shoreline (with not much shoreline left) and has a good sit down on its rumpus. My friend was scared and wanted to run away. Me being the calm one I grabbed her arm and said please don’t haha. The bear continued to sit down and stare at us from a bit of an uncomfortable distance. I took some time to observe the bear and wait it out. At one point an eagle flew above us and the bear glanced up and followed its flight. I then had the sense that the bear was calm and harmless. We decided to walk past it as far away as we could. It let us.

Camp for the evening at Nissen Bight is less busy than Nels because it’s not the closest camp to the start. This camp is officially the end of the North Coast Trail completing 43 kilometers.

 

 

Day 6: Nissen Bight to Guise Bay – 10 km

5 Ish hours of hiking.  Guise Bay has my heart. It is such an incredible place to explore. There are sand dunes and beaches on either side. If you’re lucky you will find a patch of wild strawberries. The funny part of doing this section 3 times. It always looked grassier than I remembered. There is still a lot of exploded sand though. Not many people camp here but that’s the reason why I always choose it.

 

The water source is at the far end of the beach and can only access it at low tide. The first time I camped at this beach we were out of water and had to wait for the tide. The second time I went they had a bear cache and outhouse which must be newer.

 

 

Day 7: Guise Bay to Nels Bight – 8 km

Lighthouse day! 5 hours total to go up and venture to our new camp spot. From the top of the lighthouse to Nels Bight was 2 -3 hours. It was a leisurely day to explore around. One thing to note is that even though this section is more busy with humans, there are still wolves and bears! In 2011 I remember waking up in the middle of the night hearing ruffling in the distance and howling. I was too tired to stay awake and I fell back asleep.

In the morning when I woke up and got outside the tent sure enough there were wolf prints everywhere and they surrounded the tent. I have heard similar stories and have never heard of wolves harming anyone. I think they are just curious and as always looking for food. Remember to keep your food in the bear caches. Rats are a common critter to keep your things away from, eee!

 

 

 

Day 8: Nels Bight to Cape Scott Parking Lot – 15 km

The hike out is a long one. It consists of muddy mud and more muds. It’s all relatively flat but some difficult situations and footstep navigating. There is a forest camp spot on tent pads that cuts out more km. There are some historical things to look at along the way.

It had to be an early wake-up because we had to make it out of the trail before 1 pm to catch the shuttle back. We hustled hard and made it. We hiked for roughly 5.5 hours.

 

North Coast Trail Video Round 1

 

North Coast Trail Video Round 2

 

Major Key Points

 

• Plan & learn the tides.
• Filter your water & know where your water sources are.
• Secure your food in the provided bear caches.
• Pack the right gear but only what you need.
• Leave no Trace – respect the environment.
• Plan ahead – reverse and pay your fees.
• Plan for the weather, it can be a wet one.
• Expect mud even if it’s sunny.